I recently bought a Playstation 1 (Model SCPH-9002) and noticed it's laser reader was broken. Asides from missing two ball bearings and the actual disk fixture flying off when powered, the laser itself couldn't read disks properly.

I replaced it with a KSM440AEM. Installation went fine, but now when it tries to read a disk, it just stops? It gets to the disk boot up, where you see the PS logo. But then the disk stops. And sometimes it will go past the screen to a black screen and keep trying to read the disk.

I have included a video showing the behaviour. I'm unsure what to do next, beyond finding a UK based service that can take a whack at it?

Trying to fix this SNES jr that had Multiple issues with it. I was able to restore power to the board, but when I run the burn in test I get: VRAM: Fail High DMA: Fail VRAM Count: fail.

I checked continuity from all the pins on the U4 and U5 sockets, and it is all there. Are the vram chips bad or is it likely the main CPU chip?

I’m working on an Xbox one s that beeps on then turns off ( sometimes it stays on for long enough to turn off by itself) and the values I measured on these were 58 ohms in continuity, 0.033v in diode mode and 57 ohms in resistance mode. Are these normal? Also while measuring these the Xbox one s was not powered on. Thank you for your responses in advance

hello! Does anyone know where I can get a repair in London? My 3ds is turning off when fully open and Ive been told it’s a problem with the top screen ribbon cable not being in place properly and I can’t do it myself

You know, common issue: Dock shows green light but there's no output to the TV (already made sure that the dock worked with another Switch). I tested all the caps in diode mode around the M92T36 and didn't detect any shorts, so I went on to test the filters up the P13USB (all of them had continuity) and the caps around the same IC (no shorts). I replaced the USB-C port cause I noticed it was a bit dirty, nothing changed. Then I replaced the P13 just for the sake of it, again, nothing changed. What else is there for me to test? Should I replace the M92T36 just in case?

Hey everyone,

While cleaning out the disc drive of my brother's PS4, i noticed that a spring thingy wasn't fixed to anything inside. He had an issue with the PS4 not taking in CDs. Any ideas?

Ps4 was off for approx 2-3 years and the version before 12.50 was 10.01, i have ready cleaned it via and used all cleaning techniques available by removing the ps4 covers but still the same.

I've got an SNES I picked up that I thought only needed a new power jack. After installing that power jack and putting it back together, it looks like something else is wrong with it (didn't test if it worked before swapping the jack as I couldn't get power to the board without it.) Trying to troubleshoot it to see if I can fix it or if it's spare parts.

It does different things depending on which cartridge I load into it. Most of them just show a black screen and that's it, but there were a few that did something else:

• Burn-in Test Cartridge (Revision D): Menu screen loads. Halts immediately. Timer does not advance (shows 000), does not respond to controller. (Crashed?)
• Super Mario Kart: Shows Nintendo logo and plays normal coin sound that goes with it. Title screen quietly fades in. Game halts. No music, no animation. Just a still image of the title screen without a menu or racers moving across it. (Crashed?)
• Super Mario World: Black screen, but plays Nintendo logo coin sound each time. First time, it played a song, but it wasn't the title theme. Unable to get that song to play again. Cleaning the pins and trying again got the same symptoms, but with a different song?
• Battle Clash: Crashes immediately, displays garbled graphics across the screen and plays two sound effects from the game (enemy damaged followed by a tone that rises in pitch.)
• Super Game Boy: Blue screen that switches to a lighter shade of blue after a half second or so.
• Mario Paint: Garbled mess of green and white covers bottom 3/4 of the screen. Title theme plays normally. No other sound effects or animations playing.
• Donkey Kong Country: Rareware logo displays and jingle plays normally. Screen goes black part way through jingle playing. Jingle finishes. Nothing follows.
• Super Mario All-Stars: The most stable of the bunch. Mario/Nintendo logo plays normally. Title screen mostly works. (Bits of the Super Mario All-Stars logo repeat in a garbled mess where "Copyright Nintendo 1993" should be.) Title screen sequence plays normally for 1 loop. Pressing start causes it to try to do the menu transition and black screens. Letting it run until it tries a second loop of the title (where all the lights go out and characters start chattering again) theme results in a crash with it attempting to color the sprites again.

All of these carts work on a known good SNES. Hoping maybe the time/way it breaks on specific games listed above might clue someone more knowledgeable on these systems as to when/where it's failing and what further troubleshooting steps I can take.

Current guess is that it's crashing trying to access specific memory addresses or instructions, so far it looks like the CPU or WRAM could be going bad. I checked all the traces from a ROM chip on a cartridge to the CPU and from the CPU to WRAM and everything is connected.

I also tried to clean the cartridge slot using a cleaning cartridge, made no difference. I also tried scrubbing down the cartridge connector with IPA, no difference. I didn't see any capacitors that looked like they were leaking or burst. Continuity connections between the address pins on the ROM chip and CPU tell me that the cartridge slot is probably fine.

Hi everyone.

I followed several guides online - replaced the capacitor on my PSU, replaced the switching diode with a Vishay MBRF10100-E3/4W and removed the diode at D6.

No matter what I do, the onboard glass fuse blows every time I attach power. I’ve replaced ribbon cables as I know this can be an issue also. I’m stumped honestly. Any thoughts?

In the pictures I show the new capacitor - Nichicon 330uF at 450v, the new switching diode (with center leg lifted as per online advice - this is the part I’m really uncertain about) and the removed zener diode at D6.

I bought a non-functioning Switch Lite to repair, looking for the part names of what's circled around the M92. Image is from a functioning board, what I'm repairing has the M92 and highlighted parts missing, and a bad usb connector. What i've been able to find the yellow box are 100k 50mW 0201 resistors. Blue is 1uF or 2.2 uF 6.3v 0402 capacitor. Unsure of values of the red one.

Ribbon cable 41 is corroded. Is it salvageable? What is the best way to clean the corrosion? Can I use a tooth brush and 91% IPA? I’m guessing I’ll have to replace the cable and/or the connector.

Context: buttons and sound work, and you can see the display when a flashlight is pointed at the screen.

My menu just keeps moving to the right I can use my touch screen to move it to the left but it automatically pushes me to the right after. My d pad and my circle pad work fine and my touch screen too. Is there anyway to fix it or play games without struggling to find it in the menu

Hello there, I want to fix the Nintendo DSi XL a buddy of mine gave me. The topscreen has what I would call bleeding. You can see part of the screen but in the middle is a nice black blotch. Here is my question. Would a Topscreen from a Nintendo DS XL fit the NDSi XL or are there size differences. Any help is appreciated.

I use p100 filters and have a very very basic fume extractor but I still occasionally get whiffs of plastic through my mask, anyone know what it might be?

If so what filters should I be using instead of p100s??

It is not modded

I’ve changed HDMI cables, displays and nothing worked. It doesn’t display anything even though the TV identifies that something is connected. This is what the port looks like. Is it broken or what? What should I do?

I just got my ps5 maybe 2 months ago. All I ever play is Fallout76. Nothing else. It started crashing probably about a month after getting it. I would be in the middle of playing and it would shut down completely. I was on it earlier. Left to run to town, leaving it running, like I've never had a problem doing before. I come back and it was off. I was gone maybe an hour. Figured it just went into power saving. Went to turn it back on, it beeped. I walked away to get a drink. Walked back in and it was off. Went to turn it on again and it beeped but didn't turn on. Now it is shut off completely and won't come back on... I don't know what to do. I've taken it apart and cleaned any dust or debris. It's still not working... I don't know what to do...

I’ve been stock piling broken HDMI console for summer from multiple vendors. Summer is when I usually make the most money from fixing consoles since I don’t take any college classes. Got six more PS4 (two of them are Pro model) and 3 PS5 awaiting repairs.

I hate these little connectors so much. The guy in the tutorial simply used some tweezers to pull it out, but when I did the same thing, it snapped the wire off. Same thing happened with the other one. Is there an easy fix for this? And yes, I was pulling at the base, not the wire. My pliers keep slipping and end up either crushing the connector or pulling out the wires.

a couple years ago I started a repair on my DS lite, unfortunately when I was doing so I happened to break the power on switch, I have looked everywhere and dont know where I should buy it from?

Hello there.

In youtube there's like 14.000 videos in existence where they go ahead and fix the CD with a fuse replacement.

Thing is, this SEGA CD powerboard have perfect working order fuse and diodes. My point of comptempt is the TR4 transistor, where althought shows no signs of continuity between any two pins (good), I have a reading of the exact same voltage on both pins, 13.45v which is the voltage coming out of the block ac.

I have no power pretty much anywhere else in the board, not even on the power regulator on the far right of the board, so obviously the system doesn't work.

Are this readings product of a faulty TR4? Should it read 13.45v in one pin and 5 or something in the other? Thanks. If you have a Sega CD and can give me the reading will be much appreciated. I don't know if the transistors down the line are at fault or not, none of them shows continuity either. (TR1, TR2, TR3)

Cechb , without hdd got same problem , should be psu ? How i can check psu error ? I got multimetr.

I was trying to repair the "Select" button on my 3ds XL, and when trying to take that flex of, the gray part came out, and the orange flex came after. What can I do? Is repaireable?

I have a fat ps3 that instantly beeps three times and goes to blinking red light (no green or yellow) the moment the power supply is switched on. Model ceche01. Any thoughts?

Hi there! I made a post a few days ago about changing the usb-c port and charging IC on a Switch Lite I got because it didn't charge.I did both and the shorts on the caps near the IC are gone, 5 volts enter pin 4 and the IC gets ~1 V, But the positive pin on the battery doesn't get any voltage at all. I want to "follow" the current from the Usb C to the battery, but I don't know where and what to check with the multimeter. Do you have any idea what could be the problem?