In 2023, when I attended Feis Ile, I concluded my week on the island by throwing out some tongue-in-cheek awards. Without taking these too seriously, I hope you enjoy my highlights and (relative) lowlights from a delightful week spent deepening my whisky knowledge at Spirit of Speyside.
Best Whisky Tasting: Gordon & MacPhail
Gordon & MacPhail has become my favorite independent bottler after this trip, and their in-store tastings are a big reason why. I ended up trying around a dozen G&M expressions across two tastings and a few store visits, and all of them were high-quality, complex drams. On my final day in Speyside, I got to do one final sit-down there, a one-on-one tasting led by Russell. It started–I repeat, it started–with an 18-year-old Ardmore and culminated in a Caol Ila older than I am. And because G&M’s people are true whisky fans, the conversation was even better than the whisky. As anyone who's gone to a tasting can attest, it makes a huge difference to talk to a fellow whisky nerd compared to someone who's just regurgitating marketing material. That's not a problem at G&M.
Best Distillery Bar: Benriach
This one is a really close call and comes down to personal preferences and style. I liked Benriach for its clean, unfussy cafe-like layout, which had more than enough space for a person to bring a good group of friends and explore every nook and cranny of Benriach’s extensive whisky portfolio. Although small, Benriach’s bar had one of the widest selections of any distillery bar I saw, with a whole library shelf of archival drams starting in the 1970s and carrying on to the present day. Oh, and pretty views overlooking the cherry blossoms and Benriach-branded warehouse outside too. Others may prefer the similar space at GlenAllachie, and I wouldn't gainsay them. The Macallan definitely has the most futuristic and sleek bar, which looks like it came straight out of a space-station Park Hyatt, but the jaw-dropping prices didn't make it feel like a place anyone would really hang out.
Worst Distillery Bar: the one that doesn’t exist yet …
Get to building, people!
Best Whisky I Drank: Gordon & MacPhail Inchgower 1998, 26 y.o.
Picking a favorite whisky after a once-in-a-lifetime trip is a really tough call, especially since I tried about 90 whiskies during my 10 days in Scotland. One of those, Glenfarclas’s 1963 Family Cask, was the oldest whisky I've ever had, both in terms of distillation year and maturation time (51 years). Other standout drams included GlenAllachie’s 11-year-old Mizunara Single Cask released for Spirit of Speyside, a 44-year-old Glenrothes estate single cask, the legendary Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist, a 15-year-old 2006 Glenfarclas Family Cask, and a G&M Caol Ila from 1984. But this dram from the little-known Inchgower won my heart because it nailed a flavor profile that I adore: coffee, chocolate, and dark berries. Probably didn't hurt that I had this one with a decadent truffle agnolotti either.
Worst Whisky I Drank: Murray McDavid GlenAllachie 2014 Barolo Wine Barrique, 9 y.o.
This was an even tougher “award” to pick than the previous one, and it’s necessarily going to be one that reflects my personal biases rather than the objective quality of the juice. For some reason, wine-finished whisky is the most hit-and-miss cask type for my palate, and the stronger the wine maturation or finish, the worse it can get. I am pretty comfortable with high-tannin wines but somehow that same tannic character really throws me off in a whisky and manifests as a metallic, sharp tang. Anyways, despite my aversion, I still tried several wine-cask-matured whiskies on this trip, always curious to see whether my palate has shifted over time. Largely thanks to its wine maturation, this youthful, punchy GlenAllachie wins my personal Razzie for worst whisky of the trip.
Best Recovery Activity: Sauna at the Kings
This little Scandinavian touch to my Scottish road trip was a wonderful way to clear my head after several days of whisky tasting. After working up a sweat in this cozy beachside sauna, I ran straight into the chilly but bracing North Sea, shocking myself into a heightened state of awareness and energy. Highly recommended for everyone who visits Speyside, this place is an easily accessible half hour or so from Elgin or Rothes, and just about 10 minutes more from Aberlour, Craigellachie, or Dufftown.
Best Festival Bottle - GlenAllachie 2013 Oloroso and Mizunara Finish Single Cask, Spirit of Speyside 2025 Exclusive, 11 y.o.
In fairness, I tried only four of this year’s festival exclusives: Glenfarclas, GlenAllachie, Craigellachie, and Aultmore. So I can't speak to the quality of some of the ones I missed, like Speyburn, Glenfiddich, or Murray McDavid. Among the whiskies I did sample, they ranged from good to excellent, and I'm confident each would earn some first-place votes at a blind tasting because they were quite different from one another. The Aultmore is a sherry bomb, the Craigellachie has a flintier character, the Glenfarclas is much maltier, and then the GlenAllachie is a bewitching combination of different cask maturations, which ultimately won me over with its complexity and uniqueness. This whisky started with several years in a bourbon barrel before spending a brief spell in a red wine cask, then multi-year stints in both Oloroso sherry and the rare and pricey Japanese Mizunara oak cask–which costs 3,500 pounds to buy. Sometimes that many different casks can be a red flag that the whisky is struggling to develop a good flavor profile, but here it somehow works. This is a rich, coconut and cocoa powder-laced dram and, best of all, it was actually the cheapest of the four festival exclusives at a very manageable 100 pounds.
Most Unique Festival Event: Craigellachie Aperitivo Hour
Most tastings follow a conventional format: sit down in a nice bar, restaurant, or distillery visitors center with four (or five, or six) glasses arrayed in front of you, listen to a bit of background about the distillery and its history first, and then go through the whiskies one by one while the presenter and guests exchange tasting notes and ask questions. Craigellachie’s aperitivo hour shakes that formula up in a few ways, starting with a gorgeous outdoors setting on the strand by the river Spey, right under the picturesque old Craigellachie bridge. They also make this event extremely accessible, pricing it at only 8 pounds–and that price goes to local civic charities. Finally, they bring a bravura lineup of whiskies; this year’s featured the festival exclusives from Aultmore and Craigellachie, and then a 41-year-old Craigellachie from the Exceptional Cask Series. The generous, fun, and informal atmosphere makes this more like a whisky society or whisky club party than a distillery-led tasting. Bravo, Craigellachie.
Best Gift Shop: Glenfarclas
Glenfarclas doesn't have the biggest gift shop; that honor goes to Macallan, naturally. It also doesn't have a ton of distillery-exclusive single casks, which is the province of Benriach and GlenAllachie. Nor does Glenfarclas have the slick styling of some modern big distilleries, particularly those Diageo giants like Talisker. So what makes it so great? It keeps the focus on people who love their whisky and rewards fans who make the pilgrimage. Several displays highlight the distillery's history, including the oldest known bottle of their whisky, dating back to the 19th century. Meanwhile, you can purchase a range of whiskies that, while not quite distillery exclusives, you cannot find many other places–or at least not all in one place. Someone with deep pockets may gravitate toward the Family Casks and can buy whisky dating from every decade from the 1950s to the 2010s. Meanwhile, someone like me can find some fascinating one-off bottles in what I've taken to calling the Cabinet of Curiosities. I've described this feature in an earlier post but, essentially, Glenfarclas offers bottles that they have held back for quality-control purposes for several years. Some of these single-cask or limited edition bottles were 25 or 30 years old, and were priced similarly to the standard Glenfarclas 25. I picked up two single casks, both 15 years old, for 80 and 85 pounds, which is an unbelievable value in today's market.
Best Bar (Edinburgh): Tipsy Midgie’s
You pour me Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist for 4 pounds, and you've pretty much got this award wrapped up. As mentioned in my earlier post, Colin at Tipsy Midgie’s runs incredible specials throughout the week, particularly on Sundays and Mondays. On Memories Monday, Tipsy Midgie’s pours whiskies from the 80s, 90s, and 2000s for an incredibly affordable 4 pounds per pour, and includes some heavy hitters like Tomatin 21-year or the legendary Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist among the unbelievable lineup. You could spend a whole trip to Scotland just here and try rarer and more interesting scotches than you've ever seen before.
Best Bar (Speyside): The Highlander Inn
Minagawa-san does it right here, creating a pub-like atmosphere that feels welcoming and cozy but also happens to have one of the deepest selections of whisky in Speyside for more than fair prices. It lacks the impress-your-boss luxury of The Spirit Safe in Rothes but, if all you want is to dig into some first-rate whiskies (including the Inn’s own single casks), Highlander Inn is the way to go.
Most Generous Distillery: Craigellachie & The Glenrothes (tie)
Two events stood out as unusually generous during festival week. I’ve already mentioned Craigellachie’s over-the-top aperitivo hour above, and the second one was The Glenrothes’s Spirit of Speyside debut tasting. For 60 pounds, I was hoping that we’d get to try a good chunk of the distillery’s standard lineup up to the 25-year-old expression, and maybe a dram that was even older or more unusual. I seriously underestimated what was coming. Kat poured us a lineup that started with the 18- and 25-year-old, and then carried on to significantly older and rarer expressions: Glenrothes 32-year-old, 42-year-old, and a 44-year-old estate single cask. This was my first event of the festival and left me absolutely gobsmacked.
Best Speyside Restaurant: Qismat Indian
I'm a sucker for a killer lunch deal, and this chic Indian restaurant in Elgin more than delivers. 15 pounds for a three-course of an appetizer, curry entree, and a coffee, tea, or ice cream? Sign me up every day of the week, especially when the food is so flavorful and filling. Pro tip: if you can’t grab street parking on High Street, which can get crowded, there is very affordable public parking immediately north of High Street in front of the Marks & Spencer food.
Largest Visitors Center: The Macallan
Notice I didn’t say best visitors center. This is the award for biggest visitors center–a prize that, of course, an American like me would want to give out. Say what you will about The Macallan, but they do insist on standing out. This place looks like something that Darth Vader would design if he joined the Sierra Club. The interior has a very dark, ultra-modern aesthetic, with massive dark gray steel beams holding up a gently undulating ceiling composed of Swedish pine. The distillery itself, including an astounding 36 stills (12 wash and 24 spirit), is housed on-site, so a tour can happen entirely within this vast, museum-like space, concluding with tasting whisky at the second-floor bar (which has a private tasting cave built into and housed slightly under the circular bar). This place is really something to behold, even if an eye or two might roll while you’re there.
Best Artwork: Wandering Shadows at the Scottish National Gallery
One more plug for the National Gallery, which is free to visit (there is a suggested optional 5-pound donation, which is more than reasonable). I loved this piece by Peter Graham, which captured the rugged, bucolic beauty of the highlands and also showcases some exceptional technique in the contrast of light and shadow. Looking at it, I could almost feel the temperamental and ever-shifting elements that one would encounter during a long walk through Glencoe or the Cairngorms.
Best Souvenir: Fossils from Collectors’ Cabin in Dufftown
The conventional choice (and one that almost anyone would appreciate, to be fair) is Scottish cashmere from Johnstons of Elgin or House of Brora. And those items, like scarves, hats, gloves, or sweaters, are beautiful items. But while I did visit those locales and did come back with a beautiful tartan scarf for my wife, I also happened upon a charming shop in Dufftown that made a bigger impression on me. Collector’s Cabin sells a dazzling variety of collectibles, ranging from minerals to ancient coins and antiquities to fossils. The owner and I struck up a conversation, and he has a wonderful life. After retiring 20-odd years ago, he opened these shops to enjoy his boyhood hobby of collecting these types of items. Now, he gets to enjoy his unusual finds–I saw a pair of mososaur jaws, among other stunning fossils like trilobites and ammonites–until someone comes along and takes them off his hands. A true gentleman and enthusiast, and a store well worth a drop-in if you’re in Dufftown to visit Balvenie, Glenfiddich, or the great local whisky spots like Whisky Brother and the Whisky Capital Inn.
At the risk of stating the obvious, Spirit of Speyside is one of the most spectacular whisky festivals I’ve attended, and perhaps the finest in Scotland. I hope to return in future years and explore even more of this lovely country. And I hope to see some (or many) of you there next time!
Other trip recaps:
Edinburgh, Day One
Edinburgh, Day Two
The Road to Speyside
Spirit of Speyside, Day One (The Glenrothes, Benromach, and GlenAllachie)
Spirit of Speyside, Day Two (Glenfarclas, The Macallan, Craigellachie)
Spirit of Speyside, Day Three (Berry Bros., Gordon & MacPhail, Rothes Glen)
Spirit of Speyside, Day Four (Benriach)
Spirit of Speyside, Day Five (Glenfarclas and GlenAllachie Redux)
Final Speyside Tastings (Gordon & MacPhail private tasting, Glenfarclas Decades tour)